Socialization & Playtime

Socialization & Playtime

We take the time to separate each puppy from their litter-mates for individual quality time. They have been introduced to different sounds, meet different people, and see different objects.  You agree to continue providing socialization with other people, places, other animals and objects, but will use great caution of where you expose this puppy.  Highest vulnerability to viruses for dogs is between 9 weeks to 6 months old. Please be especially cautious during the first month after bringing your puppy home, as this is the time your puppy will be building antibodies to viruses from the vaccination injections and this is the most vulnerable time for your puppy.  However, socialization is important.  During this vulnerable time, we highly recommend socializing your puppy on sidewalks, driveways, or on pavement such as tennis courts (instead of parks, walking in the woods, vet’s clinics, etc), as viruses cannot survive long on these types of surfaces.

Your puppy should be handled, petted and kept calm in their early months to help keep down stress and hyper behavior.

Training Tips

Remember, A trained boxer makes a better family member

Puppy Training Starts Early


Always give attention for the good behaviors instead of bad. This will make them want to focus on good behaviors.


Start teaching your puppy command words

 Come, Sit, stay, wait, Leave it  


Teach your dog that you are the leader

Although the Boxer is an affectionate and highly intelligent dog, he also has a mind of his own. He needs to learn that you are now the top dog, the alpha person in his life. The sooner he understands that, the fewer behavior problems you will encounter with your puppy and adult. Never end a training lesson with the dog getting his way. It always ends with the dog doing what is expected of him. 


You want your dogs attention to be focused on you instead of them interested in the other people...it's important not to let them meet everyone, especially If they are pulling you, don’t let them meet as they are getting praise for pulling on a leash. 


Remember don't be negitive with your dog, it will only hurt their confidence, and you need them to trust you not be scared of you.  


Housebreaking your puppy

I like to use a crate when housebreaking a puppy. Dogs will do anything not to soil their dens. Puppies learn this very early on. It is a part of their dog psychology. By raising them with the crate /den like environment and taking them outside as often as possible, they learn to contain their potty accidents in order to keep their den clean. If you will take advantage of this inherent part of the puppy’s psychology, then you will have a very easy time of house training your puppy. When your puppy is out of his crate, leave it open in case he wants to go take a nap. You will soon see that your puppy will go to the crate for his/her safe comfortable place.  It is a good idea to put your puppy on a regular schedule so that everyone knows what to expect. Feed them at set times because food stimulates the movement of the bowels within 5-30 minutes. As soon as they have finished eating, they need to be carried outside and encouraged to potty. I like to use command words such as “go potty”.  Always praise them for going outside to potty, and they will get the hang of it. I take them to the same area in the yard until they get use to going and doing their business. They need to be taken out several times during the day (after eating, sleeping, playing or whenever you see them start sniffing around like he/she needs to go potty), also last thing at night and the first thing in the morning.  We carry the puppies out because at this young age carpet and flooring are indistinguishable from dirt and grass to them. They may not differentiate between them until they are at least 12 weeks old or use to the routine.  In order to avoid potty training problems in the future, it is best not to let any bad habits start. This will take some work on your part but it will be well worth it in the long run. After the puppy gets in the routine really good, it is possible to extend that sense of den to include the entire house, little by little, room by room.  If you keep up on your part you will see your puppy house trained very quickly. Try not to leave them running around the house alone, if you can’t watch them, put them in their crate. They can’t get the run of the house until they are 100% house trained. If you aren’t watching they could be going somewhere else in the house. So please keep them in sight until you have accomplished the housebreaking.  If you put in the time and effort, it will pay off very well. Don’t get to upset if they have an accident, remember they are puppies and accidents will happen, especially if you aren't keeping an eye on them. Immediately correct them and pick them up right away, carry them outside and say "Go potty". Remember to praise them when they go outside to potty.  They will start to learn that if they go inside they get corrected and if they go outside they get praised. Make sure to clean up the accident really well inside with a product with an odor eliminator such as Nature's Miracle found at a pet store, so that there will not be a trace of urine scent.  My Puppies, by the time they go to their new home, will already have a head start on house training. We start working on house training before the puppy leaves us.  Remember by setting a feeding schedule, and Not leaving their food down all the time, this will help housebreaking go a lot faster.  Never put food or water in the crate.  Good Luck, be consistent and stick with it and it will pay off!   


Teaching your dog not to jump up on people

Another helpful Tip, even though a puppy may look cute jumping up on your leg for your attention, stop the behavior now, by taking your knee and lightly push him/her backwards making them lose their balance. They will soon realize that it's not fun and they will learn that you don't allow it. Then you will have a head start on breaking a bad habit such as a 65 lb dog knocking you or your company down by jumping up. 


Teaching your dog the correct chewing habits

Puppies will need to chew, especially while they are teething. Don't allow Chewing on fingers, clothes, rugs, or furniture. They need to learn early on that it's not allowed! Have a Toy Box filled with chew toys, balls, etc... When your puppy starts to bite your fingers or pant legs, lightly grab their muzzle with a little squeeze and say in a firm Voice "No".

Take them over to the toy box and give them something safe and okay for them to chew. Soon you will see them start to go to their toy box to get something to chew on or play with. 

Don't give them old shoes or socks to chew. They will not know the difference in the old one or your brand new pair

Teaching A Dog Not to Bolt out the Front Door

Put a leash and collar on your dog. Have your dog standing on your left side.Stand in front of the door with the leash in your left hand and the door knob in your right hand. As soon as you open the door, if your dog starts to bolt out the door, immediately slam the door closed. You will start to notice after a few times, he will be more cautious about not immediately running out the door.  Gradually start moving the door open and closed very quickly. Every time your dog starts to think about going through the door he will see it slam again. At the same time, tell him “Wait”. When you are ready to go out the door with the dog, give him a release command so he knows when it is okay to walk through the door.  The release command is extremely important, without it, you will never get consistent results. Once a dog understands the concept, you can tie a long line to the door knob and slam it shut from a distance, by standing far enough away so your dog thinks he can sneak out. This teaches the dog that even if you aren’t near the door, he isn’t allowed to bolt out the door without your permission. Next have a visitor come in the door from the outside, as the dog tries to bolt, the visitor closes the door from the outside.  Practice this over a few weeks and you will see your dog look to you for permission before walking out the front door. 

Vaccines... Do Not Over vaccinate

There are a lot of concerns that dogs are being over vaccinated. Please take the time to contact a holistic Vet or do your research on this very important issue. Over vaccinating will put more stress on their already stressed immune system.


In fact, repeat vaccinations are linked to auto-immune diseases and other health problems. If your vet pushes the repeat vaccines on your dog, you can always opt for a titer test.


*When taking your puppy for their First Vaccination which should begin at about 9 weeks of age, distemper + parvovirus.


Do Not Give Lepto or corona! Be proactive and ask! You are your dogs health care advocate. Stand strong with knowledge.


Check out (Dr. Jean Dodd's Canine vaccination protocol for the most up to date and safest vaccination protocol)


Age of Pups - Vaccine Type


9 - 10 weeks - Distemper + Parvovirus, MLV (e.g. Intervet Progard Puppy DPV)


14  weeks -     Distemper + Parvovirus, MLV     (e.g. Intervet Progard Puppy DPV)


18 weeks (optional) - Distemper + Parvovirus, MLV (e.g. Intervet Progard Puppy DPV)


20 weeks or older, if allowable by law - Rabies


1 year - Distemper + Parvovirus, MLV


Rabies vaccine (give 3-4 weeks apart from distemper/parvovirus booster


Perform vaccine antibody titers for distemper and parvovirus every three years thereafter, or more often, if desired. Rabies is the only vaccine that is state required. Vaccinate for rabies virus according to the law, except where circumstances indicate that a written waiver needs to be obtained from the primary care veterinarian. In that case, a rabies antibody titer can also be performed to accompany the waiver request.

Remember to be your dogs advocate

They depend on you so feel free to ask your Veterinarian questions and do research 

PUppy Care Items

Shampoo

Cologne Spray: great between baths

Rubber brush with rubber bristles: "Zoom Groom" (this is great for boxers short coat, helps shedding)

Dremel Tool:  for nails (I prefer the dremel tool instead of the pet nail grinder)

Crate: (Midwest life stage Double Door wire Crate 42”) (at least 2 doors so you can turn crate either way)

Beds: blankets, crate pad

Toy Box filled with toys: balls, toys, safe bones etc...

Bowls: Raised Feeders are better

Collar, leash. Id Tag & poop bags

Baby Gates: to help keep puppy safe

High Quality Food

Supplements: for healthy immune & digestion systems

Sealed Food storage Container: Keeps food fresh longer

Treat Jar:  filled with High quality Treats

Poop Scoop


Owning a dog requires a commitment to train, give adequate attention, care, protect, and love for their entire life! 


As pet owners it's our job to keep our pets safe. Remember to puppy proof your home, hide cords and pick up items that can become a choking hazard. Make sure your puppy is wearing an id tag. I personally have my dogs wear id tags and micro-chipped.